Monday, May 30, 2011

Northern Lake Superior Family and FIshing

We had planned a family trip (with Aunt Mandi) out to the black hills in South Dakota but the weather forecast there wnet very bad so we had to make a last minute change. I chose to go north and to explore the Nipigon Bay region a little more at the northern tip of Lake Superior. It was a long, slow drive up to Grand Marais where we stopped at the kids' grandparents place and met up with Mandi then the kids got all excited about crossing the border into a foreign country. As we crossed into Canada the weather was nice. Blue skies, no wind and warm. Driving along the trans-canada highway in the early evening we saw a moose coming out to feed by the highway. That was pretty cool.

I had planned on making it as far as Rossport but the day just got away from us. We ended up setting up camp at an RV park along Stillwater Creek. Once Jessica asked to be moved from the original site we were given we had a nice spot down by the creek and away from people. It was a nice spot. The stream was too inviting and I was soon out with my 4 weight probing for eager brook trout. None materialized in the short time I spent but it's always nice to roll a fly over in a new stream.

Bedtime came pretty quickly and everyone slept well but the morning ushered in some cold and wet weather. I was pretty upset but I figured at least it was good fishing weather. My estimations would have put these streams on the later side of a steelhead run, but probably not ended so I opted to bail on the girls and the kids and fish (superdad as always). I made the short drive east to the Jackpine River and within five minutes was hooked up with and landed my first steelhead of the trip. The fish slipped off to freedom before I got the camera out and I was lamenting my mistake when I was suddenly hooked up again.

Both steelhead were on the smaller side but fought with vigor and passion. It's true when people say superior fish fight much better than Michigan or Huron fish of the same size - no question.

A Jackpine River Steelhead
Another Steelhead

Steelhead were stacked in the gut of that pool and I hit three or four fish in there before moving on. As I walked further and further up the river just kept getting more and more beautiful and I could have fished all day, but I knew this was a family trip so I couldn't do that. I did get another smaller fish in a deeper pool a fair way upstream but it was slow.


I headed back down but couldn't resist hitting that fruitful pool. Again I struck fish but now there were a number of fat, gravid suckers moved in. Oh I hate those things but I'll put up with them if I'm getting the odd steelhead. I think I finished five for eight or nine for the few hours I was out and I was more than satisfied with that. As I was having my usual plethora of "one last cast" Jessica came tramping upstream. The girls had taken the kids into Nipigon while I fished but were now stopped at the camper for some lunch.

A Small one to finish the session

Me coming down the valley

While I'd been fishing the kids got to check out teh "paddle to the sea" (kiddies book) trail down from the library to the marina. They liked the park and the sea plane docked there. I can only imagine the tremendously swollen mass of the Nipigon River down there.


With the heavy rain and cold weather set in people's spirits were low. Despite the unexpected fishing bonus (did I mention there was nobody else on the river!!!!!) my mood was deflated too. I wanted the kids to have a good time on this trip. I met a great guy by the pullout to the river. He was a truckdriver from Manitoba. He was originally from Iceland but marred a native girl and had been living out in manitoba for over ten years. He was pleasant and I enjoyed meeting him. We chatted for over an hour so I'm sure the girls weren't too thrilled when I met up with them in Rossport a little later than I said I would. At least the kids had a good time playing at the park there and on the beach, despite the rain.

Beach at RossportThe oldest two running off some energyTypical scenery shot of the areaMom and Lara cuddling up

It was time to find a place for us to camp for the night and after a stop or two we settled on the campground at Rainbow Falls Provincial Park. It was a pretty and extensive park ranging from beaches along lake superior to inland lakes and forests. It was a touch on the expensive side but it suited our needs and when the rain stopped in the afternoon we all went on a hike to visit the namesake Rainbow Falls.

Pierce Sulking after getting in trouble for trying to squash a wormLara with a smile

Natalya having some funPierce liked the noiseMandi posing for Natalya


Everyone at the viewing platformThe last cascade of the falls

Getting out was god for everyone. We saw a heap of squirrels and snowshoe hares all over the park and with so few people about the kids could make some noise and we didn't really have to worry. Back at the campsite we put up the awning from the camper and cooked up some dinner before another bedtime.
A devilish smile from mom after a rude gesture to the cameraman

This is typical pre bedtime behavior :(

The youngest one comes to join the wrestling match

Sleep came heavy and fast for us all (except Lara, who had a somewhat restless night) but the morning again had a heavy, dark sky and light rain. I was really bummed now. The girls planned to head east to hike near Terrace Bay while I went to fish the flats in front of the mouth of the Gravel River for an hour or two. As I fished the sky cleared, the temperature climbed and the place suddenly looked like a wonderful place to vacation again. High skies weren't conducive to fish coming into the sandy shallows so I figured I'd try fishing the Cypress River. That was a good plan. I walked straight down to the river and immediately saw a pair of steelhead in the tailout spawning. I rigged up my rod and......the tip of my Scott Arc broke (again!!!) before I even made a cast. I raced back to the truck and grabbed a six weight Sage. It was difficult to get a good drift but as soon as I got one the buck moved forward and took the fly, raced upstream to a deep pool and immediately under some roots and stumps. I swear that sometimes they know exactly where to go when hooked! That was the end of him.

I moved upstream and noticed quite a number of suckers had filtered into the system. I wondered if there were any steelhead left in the river. I got to a dark slot behind some shallow riffles and drifted the fly through. BANG, fish on and I had a long chase on my hand. The lighter rod didn't have the backbone to keep my fish in the pool I'd hooked it in and the fish slipped into a long stretch of rapids so I had to run down to get some line back on the reel. That fish got me into my backing and was no more than five or six pounds. I love the heart of these Lake Superior fish!
What a fighter!

I continued to fish this beautiful river and it is certainly the prettiest steelhead stream I've fished. Nobody was out and even though it was the middle of a bright, cloudless day, I just couldn't stop fishing. I didn't get any more fish though.

Cypress RiverMore of the Cypress

While I was fishing the girls were off seeing the sights with the kids, checking out beaches and waterfalls and little towns. From all accounts they had a good time and it was nice now the sun was beginning to show itself.

One of many canyons in the areaPierce enjoying himself

When I got back to the camper the kids were in the pool by the road swimming. I was sweating and thirsty now that the sun was out and the weather was finally nice again. We swam and messed around throwing pebbles and things before heading for some dinner and then ice-cream in Nipigon. The ice-cream was a hit with everyone and the Canadians were out getting ice-cream and wearing shorts to expose their white legs.

Pierce loves Ice-cream

After our break it was back west towards Thunder Bay and Sleeping Giant Provincial Park. We arrived quite late and the sun was just setting. It's a long drive from the highway to the campground and we saw so many deer, rabbits, and even a couple of porcupines. Pierce loved seeing them all but was happy to stretch his legs when we arrived. The sun was setting, loons were calling and it was still and warm. A few bugs were out but it was so much nicer than the evening before.
Just another shot of the sunsetA duck landing for the nightThe sleeping Giant in the Background

We headed to bed and the usual wrestling and craziness went on for a while until bedtime was declared. The kids perhaps enjoyed this time of the day more than any other. Makes you wonder why I drove all that way doesn't it? But I love to see those big smiles on the kids no matter how I get them.
Lara gives a wavePierce is just happy all the time

Morning came and again it was cold and raining. We had a quick breakfast and hit the road. On the way out we saw the highlight of the trip for me. There was a bear with her cub. I didn't see it but apparently there was also another cub that the girls saw a little later (they were traveling behind Pierce and I). They were just off the road and didn't seem concerned at all with us being there.
A bear and her cub

We stopped in Grand Marais and went out for dinner then did the big haul home. We got there about midnight which didn't give me much time to pack and get ready for my trip to the Soo at six the next morning. I hope the kids and girls had a good trip. I know I enjoyed the fishing and seeing some wildlife and just enjoying the kids.

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